I have been to Kailash Maansarovar in June 2011 from Nepal-China route. It was my another solo excursion. I had join an unknown group in Kathmandu and started my journey. My focus was Kailash Maansarovar and hence was fine with any group.
To go to Kailas Maansarovar I believe, one needs luck and money but to do Kailas Parikrama you need real blessings :)
I donno how :P but fortunately I was one of those blessed ones. :)
Parikrama is of 42 kms and done in three days.
From a group of 44 just 10 of us could complete the Parikrama.
Weather is a major aspect which controls the complete show.
On the first day, it was polite in the morning and we were happy to see sun in the sky :)
Yama Dwar:
There is a myth that you leave your existing body/birth to Yama… cross the dwar and take new birth to start the divine Parikrama of Kailas.
Yama dwar was a small temple kind of structure and just had a bell inside. It was crowded with all the Yatris and the place was color full with Tibetan flags and other offerings.
We could see Kailas from there and it was too handsome :P
At a distance of around 2 km from Yama dwar… we get horse/porters and sticks. It’s the last place for our loyal land cruiser to accompany us.
From there the Parikrama starts.
It’s a beautiful starting point and you actually feel as if you are at Grand Canyon in Colorado and not in Tibet. The terrains are huge… straight and very different than what we saw on the way.
Day One.
First day is pretty easy to walk. It’s a wavy path with not much of a climb.
We travel a distance of 12kms and it’s quiet doable.
Half the way we were welcome by a Tent shop which had Chinese delicacies to offer :)
We dint dare to take any :P… just bought a tea. It was black tea and sold in a unit of thermos :) I dint dare to taste it either. :P
Onset of snow fall delighted everyone one. :) Being a gal from Sahyadris, I was taken aback by the sudden start… though it was a real treat.
I continued my journey seeing Kailas on my right all the way… and reached Derapook :)
Derapook:
Derapook has a constructed double stored C shape apartment in front of Kailas.
And… I was the lucky one to get the best possible room there. Can you believe… it was exactly in front of Kailas…!!!!
I could see him from the window…from the door... from the bed… while talking… while eating… while sleeping and while waking up as well :)
All I felt was God is pampering me :D
It was amazing view.
I just reached there and it started raining… and then it was pouring heavily.
Those who were late… were drenched badly.
It was very cold and we were almost at the height of 16000 ft.
Getting drenched in rain was an ugly thing to experience there.
And uglier was drying up in a small room of 5 at around 1-2 degrees… especially when you are wearing at least 6 layers of clothing. :)
I could witness the major effect it made on every ones mental state.
The kitchen Sherpa were sweet and tried to pep up state of mind by offering hot yummy soup, in the room. We had light conversations and stories of Kailas help us settle.
Anxious night..
But the fact was everyone was scared internally.
Heavy rain was just a glimpse of irate weather. We knew 2011 was badly hit by weather.
None of the group had completed the Parikrama till that date.
( and dint know the status of the people who had started that day)
It reminded us the group we met during the border crossing, who had lost 4 of their members due to this bad weather.
As if this was not enough… the stories of second day’s route started flowing around and it was actually horrendous.
All I knew was it’s a difficult walk of 22kms but dint know the details.
And what I discovered was far more than ‘a difficult walk’!!
It’s a trek of around 10hrs…which includes a straight climb of 6 kms… in an angle of around 70-80 degrees… in a freezing temperature... at the height of ft 18500+…
It was all repelling especially when garnished with bad weather.
And… Oh Yeh….!!
Cherry on the Cheese was … during all this time… Mr. Kailas will not be visible from any of the angle!!! That’s the way route is.
I felt it was an injustice. :|
I dint carry any spare clothes and dint had any back up plan, if drench.
Another important thing was… my Cameras!! My DSLR… my digital.. They were my life blood… could never take chance with them. After all they had captured my whole excursion till that time. I could not risk them at all.
Hmmm!!!
My mind was running fast and heart was losing interest of next day Parikrama…
All the facts and possibilities of next day Parikrama swallowed me.
I really dint know what to do… I was scared… :)
God is the only savior!!
I rushed to him and asked him to give what was best for me and also help me understand what he is giving. :) :P
doubtful dawn...
When I woke up in the freezing morning… it seemed cloudy and talks were going on that we cannot go…we should not go and all…
The disturb state of mind was still playing pivotal role…
Surprisingly I was fine with No Go… it was easy escape from that horrible 6kms climb. My scared mind was relived.
and there comes...
But after a while… Sun came out and met Kailas.
The view… the scene was so beautiful as if God was telling me… weather is going to behave itself. :) Be rest assured.
My fears… my dicey mind… my extra beating heart… all went silent and unanimously suggested me to Go ahead with the Parikrama. :) and so, I did..
Day 2:
The start of second day seemed to be similar to first day and it boosted my confidence.
It was freezing but radiant sapphire sky comforted us. Ten of us started together but soon were separated by speed difference.
I enjoyed the company of crossing yaks and locals… along with the new terrains.
Valley of Death..
After walking for a while…we came across a steep climb.
Its name was Valley of Death. We reach a spot called Shiva-tshal where it is believed Yama, the Lord of Death judges the yatri of their worthiness. The old accumulated sins are shed here and then move on anew.
The Tibetan tear their clothes, throw them around, cause injury to their person and draw blood as an offering to Lord Yama. They also pretend to be dead and lie down flat on the ground, motionless. The torn pieces of clothing lie scattered all over in the area.
It was weird concept…
Dolma la Pass...
Moving further for some time, I came across Dolma la Pass.
Dolma la pass is the nightmare of 6kms straight climb.
Unfortunately… sky was so clear that I could see the whole path. Trust me I was awestruck and was ambiguous about my abilities to climb it. All the stories I have heard earlier night were true. The climb was really horrendous.
 There is a thin line of people climbing till land meets sky.. that was the pathway :D |
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Not sure what to do… I kept on walking without seeing where I have to go. My porter helped me ease…by just being around.
Uncanny incident...
It was indeed a straight climb and increasing height was making things difficult. Just to deviate my mind I played some bhajan. It was a Sanskrit bhajan and I could hardly understand its meaning. It was pleasing for ears and I let it play on in continuous mode.
After a while I realized… that I am neither getting tired nor choking to breath, to the extent normally I am.
I was climbing in an ease … the way we do in Sahyadris at a normal height.
It was astonishing…!!
I had faint thought that it is because of the bhajan. My logical mind hit me hard and dint take this crap. But i wished to verify. I switched off the bhajan.
The result was.. I find myself breathing heavily and choking.
When I played it again… I was breathing comfortably.
It was absurd...
Real weird and illogical…!!!
But the fact was… it was actually happening. :S
After a while…
I realized that it’s a song about Daughter of Himalayas.
This was my second weird experience that made me again believe about a spiritual world, yet to be discovered!!!
With the help of this bhajan, I reached Dolma la Pass quiet well.
Its at the height of around 19500 fts...!!!
The highest point of Parikrama.
The Tibetans believe that the trail is guarded by their goddess Dolma. It is she who made us to cross over to the top. We therefore, pray to the benevolent goddess.
For me... this Dolma was the daughter of Himalayas.. who made my climb easy..
Hill of Salvation..
The upcoming hill after Dolma la pass was the hill of salvation and is marked by a natural rock which symbolizes Tara, the goddess of beauty. Arya-Tara or Tara-Devi or simply Tara is female Buddha as described in Tibetan Buddhist literature. The rock is bedecked with flags and festoons.
Many yatris tie a prayer flag and light incense sticks at its base.
After stopping for few minutes and recording the imperial view in the heart other than the camera, we continued our journey.
Gauri Kund...
After the hill of salvation... road became friendly..
It was a time to descend.
After a small flat walk.. the first thing we saw was… a frozen… emerald color… oval shape lake. It was in midst of white mountains and the view was electrifying.
It was Gauri Kund.
The myth is, its the place where Ganpati G got his Elephant head from Shiv G.
Yes..!!
Parvati G's bathing place.
It was indeed a thrilling experience to see such place in real, where this story had actually happened.
We cannot go and touch the water… as its bit away from the route. It would take another extra efforts of approx 2 hrs.
But it seemed God had decided to pamper me to max level. :)
My Sherpa went ahead to the lake and got the Gauri Kund Jal. He said it will help him earn atleast 200 Yen in total. :) He filled the Jal in 7-8 bottles and joined me back.
He showed me the bottles and gave me a sip. :)
Sherpas are real good people… very descent, dependable and trustworthy. (Hey… its not because he gave me the Jal, free of cost…:P ). They are really very helpful and has amazing fitness.
Time to descend..
Well…
he told me the major climb of the day was over.
And now its a time to get down. I dint realize the meaning of climb down… until I saw the route further.
It was again steep… :P :D.
My gosh…!!!
Suddenly I felt climbing up was better… :D
I don’t have a vertigo but I am afraid of scree.
Climbing down is always a scary challenge for me… and as if that was not enough... we had to climb down from snow. It was unstable frozen river probably... which we had to cross without wetting the shoes :D
It was breathtaking undergo :)
Woooo!!!
I took Shiv G’s name and continued.
Since it was mix of climbing down and straight walk… I could speak with my Sherpa. That helped me astray my terrified mind to some extent… and we geared up..
We came across another tent shop and it reminded us about the lunch. :D It was almost 6 hrs we had started… and all that we have had was Water!!! Had not ate anything.
But... In fact dint wish to eat either.
It was as if Brahma Chaitanya was feeding us and we really dint require any other normal food :).
I just had frooti and pack lunch was left as it is.
We continued to walk…
Glorious mountains… deep valleys… fluxing river…tent shops… crossing yaks… their dogs… their owner… yatris on the horse…passing yatris… everybody accompanied us. It was very beautiful. No one speak… Just smiled..
Zhutulpook:
4 hours of such continuous trek…brought us near Zhutulpook/Zulzulpuk.
It was an end point of day 2.
End of 22 kms.
Seeing the tents and small rooms brought us back to life… and we actually run towards it.
I was very happy to reach there… it was end of the big day.
We started around 5.30 in the morning and had reached around 3.30. 10 hours of breathtaking Trek / Yatra / Parikrama / Kora… whatever you say…was completed.
After exhaustive day…warm bed in a small room with a cup of tea gave me a gist of heaven. :D
Day 3
Third day was a cake walk after Dolma la Pass. Darchen was just 8 kms far and we completed that in max 3 hours.
On the way I saw a frozen water fall. It was amazing… I have never seen it before.
As the end of the Parikrama came closer…I experienced mixed feelings…
I was glad to complete the Parikrama but at the same time was feeling sad for leaving that place…
Leaving behind those terrains which at times gave me strength and at times scared the hell out of me…
Leaving behind that colorful sky and temperamental weather…
Leaving behind the gushing river and ever smiling mountain folks…
Hmmm!!!
Everything had stirred me so strongly that even I dint realize how important they were for me since last three days…
Land cruiser…
Land cruiser… our faithful companion was waiting for us… at the end of Parikrama.
I wished to walk rest of the 2 kms and asked my organizer whether I can.
He just smile and opened the door…
I gazed around for the last time and captured all that I could in my heart and waved good bye to the roof of the world…
Now…
after being back physically in so called civilized society, I am cherishing every moment I have lived over there. :)
